Sorry it's been a while!

Dear Friends and Family,

Sorry it has been such a long time since I've posted an update! In my second month, I've gotten into my daily rhythms of village visits and time at home among many other things. We are transitioning to the rainy season, which seems like summer at home with heavier rains. Here, it is the colder season, so I've been more comfortable with the temperature - usually in the seventies. When the sun comes out a mid-day, it gets hotter but there is almost always a breeze. Humidity has been quite high. Everyone is busy getting their crops in. Many fields are unplanted because of lack of water in the previous months. Walking to Tengeru town each morning, I pass many people with rubber boots carying hoes, shovels, and fork hoes. The women usually walk with their tool balanced on their heads.

I have finally succeeded in getting more whole grains, legumes, and a variety of fruts and veggies - in other words, peasant food. For breakfast I usually have unpolished corn or finger millet porrige made with whole milk with my tea. Leftovers from the night before are also often served. Many people here prefer white bread, jelly, peanut butter, or margerine. As I must last for six hours and may be walking quite a distance, I've gotten used to eating a lot for breakfast. I then walk to Tengeru town, which takes about 20 or 25 minutes. After meeting with either Somi or Javason - the two Tanzanian staff - we depart for a village. We walk, take a dala dala, or take a taxi depending on the distance and location. We always walk back. I have been enjoying these often beautiful "free hikes."

We train new groups and re-visit villages for follow-up. Both are interesting for me. Though it takes at least a day or two for the farmers to become more like friends and less like my students, the process is aided (I think) by my willingness to get my hands dirty. I also bring a map and post cards with me to talk about my home. Everyone here is especially interested in comparing climate, food production, and water. I have enjoyed getting to know so many people and hope to be able to visit some of them again before leaving. Of course, there is the language barrier to consider. My Swahili is progressing (pole pole! slowly!), so I can communicate in a very basic way. Villagers rarely speak English. University is taught in English, so people who have graduated are at least proficient. As I am living on the Livestock Institute of Tengeru, many of the adults are professors and there are students around. When I am with a group of Tanzanians, even if they do speak English, they converse in Swahili. I've therefore gotten quite used to either trying to pick out the words I know or day dreaming to the melody of the language in the room. I am now able to figure out the gist of the conversation a bit more easily.

We usually finish up around 12:30 and are sometimes served chai (tea). When it is brewed with whole milk or served with bites (often deep fried flour...like a very solid doughnut), I don't buy lunch and can last a LONG time without food! I might buy fruit or veggies at the market to eat at home. We then walk back to Tengeru and I usually walk home. Some afternoons, if we finish early enough, I can head into Arusha for errands, to check in with the GSC office, or even go swimming! I'd love to swim more, but it is $5 which seems like a lot in this context! Most people here do not know how to swim, as very few natural places are safe from parasites or disease. I am also adjusting to swimming in a pool instead of Lake Champlain. It is most certainly a mzungu (white person) activity.

Back at home, I have some food and my afternoon varies depending on who is home. I hope to write next about the different family members, but I'm skipping that for now. I'm still keeping up in my journal, though it is becoming more of a chore. I know I'll appreciate it later! I've been reading as well, and studying Swahili, though I never spend as much time doing these things as I expect. Some how my time seems to pass at home with many little activities.

I have now started a small garden, just to grow greens. My father is retiring in May and the family will be moving to a farm being built in the next village away from the highway - Namballa. This means that there is no longer a garden at our house. We still have a few cows and goats, but all the veggies have moved to Namballa. Other things are easy to buy at the market and last, unrefrigerated, for several days. Greens, however, are more difficult. We'll see if they grow big enough for me to eat before leaving! The garden is located in an old chicken yard, so it is fenced in and has pretty good soil. The fence was falling down and the garden was invaded on the first night. A boy from the shamba (farm) and I fixed it though, and it has turned out to be a very good location.

With the growing season lasting year round, I decided there was no reason for me to not be getting enough veggies! Carrots, onions, peppers and tomatoes are used here more like spices - for flavoring (they like subtle flavors! No spices from nearby Zanzibar!). Cooked greens are sometimes served along with a huge heap of ugali, rice, chips (home fries), or even spaghetti. Fish, meat, or chicken is usually served in the thin but oily veggie broth it was cooked in. Bones and skin are never removed, which I'm sure causes problems for many Americans! Also, almost all parts of all animals are served and enjoyed. Kidney beans are the only legume you can get at a restaurant, but lentils and small green pea-like legumes are both common at my house (after highlighting my desire for more vegetarian protein). Ugali is made from polished corn flour, stirred into boiling water until it is very thick. You take a piece, mold it into a ball, push a dent in the center, and scoop up a bit of meat, veggie, or bean. It is very white and very refined, and has very little flavor. I have succeeded in sometimes getting dona now - unpolished corn is used to make the flour, so it is whole grain. It has a bit more flavor so people here don't like it as much. I don't think my host brother Ima is thrilled when we eat beans and dona for dinner, but I'm happier!

We usually eat around 8:30, which took some adjusting to. I'm now used to the new meal rhythm. After dinner, I read or study or journal. More and more often, I've been watching movies with my host brother. I think we have to do it less as his parents want him to be studying instead of watching American movies!

Ok, that's all the time I have. Hope all is well with you all.

-Tai